MISTASSIBI NORD EST, QUEBEC, DAY 5 of trip (June 24 to July 1, 2012)

Day 5, Thursday, June 28

Weather improved and we enjoyed the spectacular scenery—craggy, bare rock high cliffs, some with mountain streams tumbling down to the river.

The current was always pushy and the river shallow in some places. Had to pick our way down a little bit.

No special challenges this day. Camped at k68 GB site, plenty of room with a large wood platform for gear. Hordes of hungry biting flies. Had the time and inclination to take a cold water bath.

Dinner was sausage in tomato sauce over spaghetti with fresh brussel sprouts (they transport easily).

MISTASSIBI NORD EST, QUEBEC, DAY 4 of trip (June 24 to July 1, 2012)

Day 4, Wednesday, June 27

This part of the river was particularly scenic with steep wooded banks, almost canyon-like and otherworldly.

 Long waterfalls coming down the cliffs occasionally on the sides.

The light rain created a mystic atmosphere. There were several tough R3s (at least one around a bend) that had to be thoroughly scouted by going bushwacking up the banks. The best routes seemed to be on river right. At one point we did some unintentional surfing in a hydraulic, which we were able to backpaddle out of.

We camped at a site K92 rated “tres beau” GB. There was plenty of room for multiple tents and fire rings. Had a small log bench. Mashed potatoes and corned beef hash with fresh beets for dinner. Rain stopped, saw a double rainbow and we were able to dry out some gear.

MISTASSIBI NORD EST, QUEBEC, DAY 3 of trip (June 24 to July 1, 2012)

Day 3, Tuesday, June 26

Light rain when we get up after rain all night. paddling started a bit tough. Somewhere around K138-139 took a lot of scouting for the S3 and R3s.

After some R2s we had the S5 mandatory carry and lunch on rock RL.

 

Portaged down the rocks to a steep put-in.

After lunch and the paper bridge, a stretch of 7.5 miles of mostly R1s with a little R2s mixed in. A hoot, even though it was raining.

Campsite was “beau site” pretty in that it had lots white flowers.

Dinner was a classic that Doug created and perfected. Chicken korma, fresh buttered green beans and brown instant rice.

MISTASSIBI NORD EST, QUEBEC, DAY 2 of trip (June 24 to July 1, 2012)

Day 2, Monday, June 25, 2012

Day started with lots of rapids of varying difficulty, R1, R2 and a few R3s. We scouted all the R3s and Doug lined the easy part of the R3 at K 156. We were still getting comfortable with the mapmaker’s river markings.

In the beginning we had plenty of R1s and R2s but also R3s. We hit an S2 little off and took on a boatload. Not a pleasant feeling with one inch of freeboard and the boat so heavy it can’t be steered. We kept the boat pointing downstream and soon had it on a rock. After some mid-river bailing we were floating again.

Nice campsite marked GB high up on the spit of a sandy bank.

Shrimp scampi dinner was a first, with pasta and carrots. A keeper. It started to rain before bedtime, which was 9 p.m. Black flies were particularly bad, plus added mosquitos thrown in for more annoyance. Site was full of fluffy white/light green flowers in bloom.

MISTASSIBI NORD EST, QUEBEC, DAY 1, June 24 to July 1, 2012

Day 1, Sunday, June 24


Sunrise was early, four or five; the birds made a racket. Out of the tent before six; lots to do. Coffee and pork chops that had to be eaten. (They were to be dinner but instead had wonderful spotted trout.) Walked and ate to keep the bugs away. All the gear had to be down to the lake and the truck delivered to our friend who was going to take it to the take out for us. Waiting for the float plane at the washed-out dock, we decide to move all the gear to the beach where there weren’t nails and broken wood. Kept watching and watching for the plane. The sky was perfect blue with a few painterly clouds. No wind, the lake very still. Then we heard the rumblings of some shore bird and the big red single Otter plane arrived with its white goose logo on the back—Air Saguenay.

The plane, a de Haviland single Otter had a new Polish Pezetel 1,000 horsepower engine. The pilot came right up to the beach, donned hip boots and jumped in the water to maneuver the plane even closer to us and the gear. He strapped our canoe to the right pontoon with nylon straps and heavy clamps. All our gear was stowed in the back of the plane. Doug gave Trish the co-pilots seat, which she gratefully accepted, Nikon in hand. We followed the path of the river up to Lac Machisque. 45 minutes, 72 air miles.

 What a treat to see the river from the air before navigating it. The landing was perfect and we taxied to the plage marked GC (group camp) on the map, the headwaters of the Mistassibi Nord Est. Kilometer 176 on the map.

We started off fast and checked the map for reliability, R2 S2 R2 R1 R2 S2 R1 R2. The first part of the river had a forest fire in June 201 so it was still pretty desolate looking, only low scrubby growth. We paddled 7.5 miles and camp at a 3C site around K 164. Dinner was especially memorable since it had been transported in a cooler for days. Steak, baked Yukon gold potatoes with sour cream, steamed fresh broccoli.

MISTASSIBI NORD EST, QUEBEC, June 24 to July 1, 2012

Getting to the Put In

Our adventure began well before we arrived at Lac Boisvert for the plane to take us to the put in. Some of it is worth recounting here for those considering a similar trip. Note, there are several other ways to start a paddle on the Mistassibi Nord Est without engaging a float plane.

Our account of this trip, started with the drive on the Abitibi Bowater Road, 12k, 78.7 dusty miles on the logging road. Our Ford 4x4 crew cab was able to do a respectable 42 to 45 miles per hour with the cruise control set. At any rate, that leg of the trip took two hours, following directions and keeping an eye out for various turns. At the designated mile, we crossed over the bridge (double, no guard rails) and found the road to Lac Boisvert, confirming that we had the right one with a middle-age couple on an ATV (many around) who spoke only French. They gave us further imperative: “Stay to the right.”

We took them rather literally and a couple of times had to backtrack as “the right” deteriorated into pure bush. The road up to the lake is very difficult. Huge rocks, steep inclines, only a few hand-written signs. Tough on the toughest truck. Rarely did we reach 10 miles an hour, mostly 5; traveling the 11 miles to the lake.

When we arrived at the pristine lake and the spot where we thought a plane might land, there was no sign of a dock. We went to the north end of the lake and still could not locate a dock. We eventually ventured down a driveway and found a chalet occupied by a family. The father told Doug (who speaks French learned in school and refreshed with regular visits to Quebec) that the dock had washed away; and offered to show us where it was. Sure enough, the sign bearing the symbol for a float plan was buried in the brush.




We found the path down to the lake and decided we would wait there for the plane in the morning–where the dock used to be. This was at the southern end of the lake. Across the road there was a gravelly open area where we camped. The evening’s beauty was marred by the onslaught of black flies. Retreated to the safety of the tent early.

BROADBACK RIVER

DAY 1

September 11,  2011
put in K232, James Bay Road

Steep incline to the put in under the bridge. Our shuttle driver and companions were helpful in getting the gear down to the boat. Flat water with headwinds. Hard going. Paddled just 6 miles.

Decent sandy beach campsite on island (K131 river left on left) . Flat and sandy with grass. Not ideal but acceptable. No beach, though, where indicated on map.

Dinner was pork loin (fresh) with apple sauce, scalloped potatoes and broccoli (fresh). 

DAY 2

September 12, 2011

Put in 9:45 with spray deck for big water rapids. Little or no headwind. River is wide then narrows at 115 kilometers. Lunched near where supposed to be a campsite (nonexistent). Saw big moose prints and bear prints in mudflats there. This was a scenario to be repeated on the Broadback. The map was very unreliable regarding campsites.

Could not find any designated campsite but found decent beach near tent cabin to camp at K112. Nice dinner of spaghetti and meat sauce plus fresh carrots on beach. Around sunset, heard a loud splashing at shore. Turned around to big bull moose making his way out of the river.

Set up tent on flat hard beach. Decent site. Put up tarp in woods near tent cabin for gear.

Covered 12 miles.

As we went to sleep at 8 and the wind was picking up. Put earplugs in. It started to rain around 11. By that time we estimated winds were 40 mph. Around midnight we both awoke to a strange thumping noise. The 17 ft. Royalex canoe had rolled 60 feet down the beach.…blown by the wind. Doug dragged it up to the bush near the tent, parallel to the shore, against the brush.

Doug secured the tent, putting up guylines weighted by rocks. By now it was past midnight and the winds were raging. Somehow we both fell asleep with the tent rattling around us.

DAY 3

September 13, 2011

Violent weather all night with rain and wind and gusts 40 to 50 mph. Overnight the wind had shifted from east to west, 180 degrees, which made us think that we were in a hurricane-like situation. The tent guylines had to be changed. The tent was taking quite a beating and we worried that it wouldn’t hold. The poles were bending and near breaking. Wind does not let up. We moved the canoe to the windward side of the tent and Doug weighted it down with rocks to act as a buffer against the gale-force winds. Wind-bound for the day! Used the plastic-walled tent cabin nearby for protection from the elements and were able to cook late lunch of fortified soup with extra green beans. Since no strenuous paddling, skipped dinner. Turned in early not much else to do. Spent another wind-filled night in the tent, which was tenuously holding up.

DAY 4
September 14, 2011
Woke relieved that tent and gear was intact. Wind had died down in night but it was overcast and threatening. Time to hit the river. Thought for sure we would be a day late ending trip. Knew we had extra food and shuttle guy would figure out that we had weather delay. He was a Cree who lived in Waskaganish. First R4 before Rooster came after a sharp left in the river. Map said to line and lift or run on left. However, we determined it was easier to lift on right. Paddled upstream 100 yards and ferried over to right where the shore was less rugged. Rooster was as spectacular as expected. Portage trail on right well identified. Not too tough (especially compared to what we would experience later that day).

Washing Machine ran a little, lined a little and portaged on right. Slippery rocks right against river began portage of Rinse Cycle. Saw no trail or indicators. Decided to go up on right and look for portage trail. Pushed through, bushwacking on two trip of four-trip portage. Rain made it even more treacherous and exhausting. Somewhere on third portage found a semblance of a trail in burnover. Very rocky toward end. Bushwacked campsite at highpoint at end Rinse Cycle rapids with blueberry bushes. Somehow managed dinner of chicken korma and rice in the midst rain and sleet.

DAY 5
September 15, 2011
Long way to go. Only at K102.

Lined Agitator on left and portaged on left at Dab campsite. Had lunch there. Would have been a nice campsite but couldn’t call it a day early. Easy portage on right for Kawisipapachipiskach rapids. Ran a tricky technical R3 at the bottom of the portage. Didn’t get make much progress this day. Hard headwinds send us ashore. Could not make it to campsite around K94. Walked the shore a bit hoping to find something better than mud. Set up camp at K96 on left in the rocks and muck yuk. Yummy corned beef hash dinner on the camp stove.

DAY 6
September 16, 2011

Long, tiring, frustrating day that ended gloriously.

Maschiskach Kaminikapusito rapids lined and ran left (after scouting to see that there was a tight line to run between two rocks.

Portage at K92 right was really tough. Lots of rocks, which were big and tough to clamber over, especially carry the heavy packs. Lots and lots of blueberries on portage. Took the left fork of the portage, which made it shorter and gave us a class 3 run at the end. Relief. Paddle to k88 without rapids. The map indicated that there was portage trail on left at Tupatukasi Falls. Spent a precious hour looking for it. Nowhere to be found. Tried the right side where there was a dry riverbed. Doug went ahead and scouted. Saw a bay eddy right and the top of the falls, to the right. Trail and campsite popped into view. Paddled into the must-do eddy. A short ascent led to a beautiful campsite on the top of the falls. First sunshine of the trip; saw rainbow over falls. Had campfire, dried gear, chicken with and pasta suprise (plus fresh beets) for dinner. And enough time to watch sunset and look for Northern lights before hitting the sack. Needed earplug for roaring falls.

DAY 7¯
September 17, 2011
Long portage to start day. Begin on rocks next to top of the falls. We did it in two stages. First stage, along the river back, through the bush a little bit to an open area with blueberries. Second stage was more through woods to rocks again. Then put in. Took time to enjoy the majesty of Tupatukasi Fall. Portage took three hours all told and didn’t start paddling until 12:15.  

 Ran R2s and R3s (Rock Nest) then slammed by the wind. Six miles of headwinds. Only did 6 K(8.5 miles) that day. Before we camped at Cree cabin site on right, saw a helicopter across the river delivering a boat for a hunting camp. Earlier that day had seen another helicopter, the first evidence of anyone else on the river the whole trip til then. Dinner was ham and Mexican rice with brussel sprouts

DAY 8¯
September 18, 2011
Best day weather, a little sun. Mudy mucky put in to start. Lined and ran Cannonball (K 72) and Quickie (K 71) Decent swifts and Side Door ran. Lined right Interview R3-4 at K 64. G t to nice rocky campsite on left at top of a nice R3 to start the next day. Had a little time to dry out gear on rocks Dinner chicken, Chicken, mashed potatoes and gravy. At K 57 have 34 miles to go – in two days if keep to schedule!

DAY 9¯
September 19, 2011
Lots of interesting rapids to run. Great canoeing.  Tricky time atK46 where river map notes show an R2 that was really a 3 4, then an R4 that was really an R2. Scouted then ran the R3 line on right, extreme right avoided R 4 in the middle. Scouted at the peninsula bend to right and avoided nasty stuff around corner. Then had a long hard and rewarding R3. Felt good to have the spray deck on, a little excitement with the big waves.

Started to rain in the afternoon. Long long paddling with no sign of a campsite on the flats. Decided had to keep going paddle past water monitoring station in hopes of finding campsite at the final rapids before the inlet at the bay. Rain rain rain added difficulty to an already arduous day. Set up camp on moss bed in raid. Cook Kraft macaroni and cheese with hamburger (dried) and vegetable medley side on one stove. Dinner in the dark. Exhausted. Nine hours on the river. K20. Don’t know if we can finish the 12 miles to Waskaganish in one day.  

DAY 10¯
September 20, 2011
Start off fast with rocky rapids and big waves, R2 plus. After rapids. Head winds in the inlet, and waves. Paddled along the right shore but hardly made progress. Paddled two hours to go two miles to the Indian Cabins at K17. Stop there for soup lunch with cheese and crackers. Winds were coming from the south and pushing us to shore. Two more hard miles to round the point, get into Rupert Bay estuary and hopefully have an easier time. Fought the wind and waves and the outgoing tide, paddles hitting bottom frequently. Had to quarter the waves to maintain stability. Five long hours of fighting bay waters. Ultimately headed into the grass to avoid the waves. Had tidal charts with us and rising tide started at 4:30 p.m. so we knew we wouldn’t get stuck on the flats. Not much clearance for the boat.  Once spotted Waskaganish village in the distance had at least another hour of paddling, some in grass to avoid wild waves out the inlet. Seemed to take forever coming in. Finally beached the canoe and got to the lodge hotel where we connected with shuttle guy to get our truck, fast hot shower in time to make dinner hour. (The dining closes 7:30.) Pork chops and greasy gravy mmmmm.